Elsa Schiaparelli, la meraviglia e lo stupore nella moda

Elsa Schiaparelli

 Elsa Schiaparelli

2 Bettina

“BETTINA” di Beatrice Brandini

Un’altra immensa personalità della moda fu Elsa Schiaparelli. L’ ho sempre amata anche perché è stata la prima a coniugare ARTE e MODA, grazie alle collaborazioni con amici come Jean Cocteau, Salvator Dalì, Man Ray, ….. A creare abiti meravigliosi, ironici, surreali, scioccanti….  Creazioni, ma sarebbe più appropriato definirle opere d’arte, che da sole impreziosivano la pagina di una rivista, la scena di un film, il manichino di un museo.

Con Poiret e Coco Chanel è stata l’anima creativa di inizio secolo, tre personalità diverse ma complementari.

A lei stilisti, creatori, fotografi, stylist, di ieri e oggi, devono tantissimo. Molti hanno attinto nel suo enorme patrimonio artistico.

Elsa Schiaparelli, French Fashion Designer

Elsa nasce a Roma nel 1890, da una famiglia colta di professori, ricercatori e scienziati. Personalità eclettica e vivace fin da piccola, si appassiona di poesia, recitazione, arte. Si sposa e si trasferisce a New York; qui incontra artisti dadaisti come Man Ray, Marcel Duchamp, che coinvolgerà da subito per la realizzazione delle sue collezioni.

Torna in Europa, più precisamente a Parigi, soprattutto per stare più vicina alla figlia, qui inizialmente verrà ospitata a casa di Francis Picabia (!).

Si appassiona alla moda dopo un incontro nell’atelier di Poiret, il primo a “liberare” le donne da corsetti e bustini infernali. Tuttavia comprende la necessità di fare una moda ancora più dinamica, ma anche più “democratica”.

Jean Cocteau Tailleur per articolo    Tailleur Patch per articolo

Abiti di Schiaparelli interpretati da Beatrice Brandini

Le prime creazioni si devono all’incontro con un artigiana armena, vicina di casa, che confezionava a mano abiti in maglia. Elsa le sottopone dei disegni che la signora realizza,  il primo “progetto di moda” è una maglia nera con un fiocco bianco che si trasforma in farfalla. Creatività allo stato puro, che ancora oggi si può cogliere in tante collezioni… Un famoso negozio americano, Strauss, nota questa maglia e ne ordina una quarantina. Questo è il  debutto nella moda di Elsa Schiaparelli.

Dinner Jacket    Jacket1

Due giacche di Elsa Schiaparelli

Da lì in avanti sarà il felice incontro fra poesia e praticità, arte e artigianato. I prossimi temi saranno motivi ispirati all’Africa, tatuaggi marinareschi, come cuori trafitti, ancore e serpenti. Mosche tromp-l’oeil, aragoste, farfalle, astrologia, giocolieri, pagliacci….

Skeletondress

Abito scheletro, di Elsa Schiaparelli

Siamo nel 1932 ed Elsa inventa il primo abito lungo con giacca, una semplice guaina in crepe de chine bianca, con grandi falde che si incrociano sulla schiena. E’ un enorme successo!

A Parigi in quegli anni da una parte c’era Elsa con la sua moda fantasiosa, dall’altra Chanel, con proposte più semplici e rigorose. Benché diversissime fra loro, anche nelle origini, avevano in testa la stessa idea di donna, libera e indipendente; entrambe furono pioniere nel comprendere che la moda per arrivare a tutti doveva essere fatta in serie.

Flowers Dress per articolo

Abito di Schiaparelli interpretato da Beatrice Brandini

Nel 1934 trasferisce la sua maison in Place Vendome al nr. 21, davanti all’hotel Ritz, scenario ideale per signore ricche e annoiate che vogliono costantemente rinnovare il proprio guardaroba. Anche in questo caso Elsa ha una grande intuizione, adatterà una parte del suo laboratorio a boutique, formula copiatissima da tutti gli altri e inizio del pret-a-porter.

times cover 1934

Elsa Schiaparelli sulla copertina di Times, 1934

Sempre in quell’anno il lancio di due profumi Salut, Sauci e Schiap (soprannome coniato dagli americani per semplificare la pronuncia del suo nome).

Elsa capisce che la vita sta cambiando, che i ritmi non saranno più gli stessi, che le donne non avranno più a disposizione tempo e aiuti, dovranno adattarsi a quella che si può definire la “vita moderna”. Ricordiamo la collezione Cash & Carry del 1939 in cui gli abiti sono pieni di tasche per una donna che usciva di casa, in fretta e senza borsa, così da  portarsi dietro ciò che le occorreva; oppure abiti da sera “camuffati”, un semplice abito da pomeriggio si trasformava, grazie al tiraggio di un nastro, in un lungo abito da sera.

Shoe-hat    Tailleur Gold per articolo

Cappello – Scarpa                                     Abito di Schiaparelli interpretato da Beatrice Brandini

Saranno soprattutto i dettagli e gli accessori a rendere uniche le creazioni della Schiaparelli,  pura fantasia, creatività e talvolta follia, come il cappello scarpa, quello che ricorda il cervello umano, il tailleur con tasche a cassetto, bottoni a forma di labbra o maschera, ricami astrologici, le prime collane e bracciali in plexiglas….. Dalì disegna per lei una borsa-telefono in velluto nero; Jean Cocteau disegna abiti poetici; Jean Hugo bottoni scultura che sono una prerogativa degli abiti della Schiaparelli. “Lavorare con artisti del calibro di Christian Bérard, Cocteau, Dalì, Vertés…, aveva qualcosa di esaltante”, scrisse in Shocking Life Elsa Schiaparelli. Le sue creazioni, piene di estro e genialità sono valori che hanno reso la nostra vita, e la moda stessa, meno complicata e più “leggera”.

JeanCocteau    Tailleur 2

Creazioni Schiaparelli, entrambi disegni di Jean Cocteau

Necklace-autumn-1938    lobster-dress5

Collana in Plexiglas                                                 Abito Aragosta ispirato a Dalì

Anche il cinema con le sue protagoniste, sarà folgorato da questa moda rivoluzionaria e creativa; la prima sarà Katherine Hepburn, poi Claudette Colbert, Lauren Bacall, Marlene Dietrich, ecc…., tutte frequentatrici dell’atelier di Place Vendome. Per Mae West realizzerà i costumi del film “Every Day’s a Holiday”, le sarà spedito un busto di gesso per rilevare le misure dell’attrice; successivamente lo stesso busto sarà lo spunto per il suo profumo più famoso “Shocking”.

dietrich schiaparelli

Marlene Dietrich con una creazione di Elsa Schiaparelli

Alcuni drammatici cambiamenti (fra tutti lo scoppio della seconda guerra mondiale che la costringerà a rifugiarsi in America) e un gusto che sta mutando, con personalità emergenti come Dior e il suo New-Look, fanno capire ad Elsa che è il momento di abbandonare la sua attività. Anche in questo caso esce di scena con eleganza e stile.

Dress 1    Evening Dress

Due abiti Elsa Schiaparelli

Una vera “shocking lady”, con il suo rivoluzionario senso di eleganza, con uno sguardo infantile e puro, con uno spiccato senso del bello, dell’arte….;  hai dato tanto alla moda, al gusto, alle donne.

elsa-schiaparelli

Grazie Elsa!

Buona vita a tutti.

Beatrice

 

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