Pitti Uomo Nr.103: PittiWay we move, we stop and we start again!

Pitti Uomo 103 set-up

Mood New Eccentric by Beatrice Brandini

About 800 brands meet at the fair, with great men’s fashion at the fore.

Tested at Pitti: Esquire and Icon

Pitti Uomo began with two interesting novelties, the debut of design proposals with a small but qualitative Design proposal in the Sala delle Nazioni, brands chosen in collaboration with Studio Ghost in Milan, and Pitti Pets, at the Polveriera, an exclusive space for accessories and lifestyle designed for our puppies; a turnover that is estimated to be around 6 billion euros (excluding veterinary expenses), therefore not to be underestimated.

It’s not an easy economic moment, which is why the PittiWay theme is more spot on than ever, we move, we move forward, but then we retreat and start again, see the pandemic and above all Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, but fashion, by its very essence, must look to the future, and such events are good for everyone.

I start with a roundup of images that I found interesting. In the middle of this masculine story, I inserted some mood boards that I made already thinking about winter 2024.

   

Ciesse Piumini brand born in 1976, acronym of its founder Cinelli Silvano, has always maintained those values of adventure, authenticity, culture of innovation as cornerstones of its DNA. Chosen as the official sponsor of very important expeditions such as the first Italian one in Antarctica.

L10, manufacturer and distributor of innovative accessories with great design content and technological innovation. As always I would buy everything!

CRAFT sports garments and sneakers for running at the Olympics, like on the field near the house. The materials and the chromatic effects are very beautiful.

Rossignol leader for winter sports, an invitation to experience the “Alpine life”; in 1907 the first wooden ski by Abel Rossignol in his historic workshop, to then move on to collaborations with the greatest world champions. Innovation and excellence.

Sun68 Italian brand attentive to details and materials, for a 360° lifestyle.

TOOCO beautiful contemporary nomads; knitwear with jacquard designs reminiscent of South America, like the mysterious Mayan symbols.

Fat Moose, if it rains or snows they take care of dressing you, clothing to live life in harmony with nature.

Windsor relaxed luxury, perfectly fitting garments made with fine fabrics. To be and feel perfect.

Brooksfield in Turin, in 1971, the story of Brooksfield was born. It began in producing men’s trousers of the highest level, arriving at the total look that we can admire today. Timeless garments that we have an infinite need for.

ALTEA a Made in Italy in the true sense of the word, luxurious knitwear, accessories, well-made shirts and dresses, excellent quality workmanship and raw materials. With a pinch of “madness” in Italian design.

KIRED nordic style, outdoor, high performance activewear handcrafted. The palette of neutral shades from white to gray melange is beautiful.

Once again, Cruciani is a very distinctive brand with the purest essence of the “Made in Italy” definition, i.e. well-made products that never go out of style, making you elegant on any occasion.

 

Paul & Shark centenary knitwear company, which creates increasingly technological garments with ever greater attention to sustainability, especially for dyes. I adore!

L’impermeabile “fashion is what is not in fashion”, this is the motto of this historic and very Italian company, which has been making beautiful raincoats since the sixties. Convinced that it is not necessary to overturn one’s collections every six months.

OFF GRID outdoor spirit, with an innovative design and technical features. Interesting.

MC 2 Saint Barth the inspiration is Iceland, from swimsuits to snow, with the same class and irony, with the same high quality.

Bikkembergs faithful to its avant-garde DNA, made more commercial than in the past, but no less gritty.

Chateau Orlando brand of clothing, accessories, home decor and lifestyle born from the creative mind of the English artist Luke Edward Hall. Vintage, folklore and mythology intertwine creating surprisingly pleasant effects

   

   

WP Archive: an archive of 80,000 garments, born from research and selection around the world in flea markets and vintage shops, collected in forty years of activity. A research that also extends to other sectors, such as for example the acquisition of the marvelous heritage left to us by Ferrè (pure poetry!). A wonderful exhibition, this inside Pitti, but also an important work to preserve the historicity and craftsmanship that have always distinguished our country and that we should preserve as the masterpieces of the Renaissance. Well done!

   

NEW ECCENTRIC, mood board by Beatrice Brandini

Madness, fun, genderless, fluidity, these are the keywords of the theme. We are children again because we have fun dressing up, making daring combinations, wearing vintage things, found in our grandparents’ wardrobe, as well as on second-hand sales platforms. Velvet, brocades, juxtaposed with voile and chunky knitwear. Woven fabrics and precious jacquards. Intense colours, such as black, burgundy, cherry red, antique turquoise, golden yellow.

   

FUN + FASHION + SPORT mood board by Beatrice Brandini

Colorful and playful theme, but also characterized by active touches and high performance, above all thanks to the fabrics. There is camouflage, abstract, tapestry designs and many “artistic painting” effects. The shapes are those of sport, with anorak, k-way, sweatshirt. Fashion and sport have been in harmony for a long time, see the latest collaborations between Gucci and Adidas, but now we are talking about a more conceptual and artistic sport, where attitude is stolen by turning it into couture. Colors in the pink palette, but also black, white and geranium. Very important prints and embroideries, how to customize the finished garment.

   

THE EARTH mood board by Beatrice Brandini

Theme in which the planet influences us with its textures, its colors, but above all its needs. There is a lot of tartan, tweed, teddy bear effect fur, but also unfinished, in the knitwear, as in the tie dye prints. He is a cultured farmer, the man of this theme, who loves his land and protects it, who wants to be comfortable, maintaining an elegant and slightly British allure. Corduroy and large corduroy, patchwork. Warm color palette in shades of green, brown, but also in orange tones.

Holypop cult ceramics, in the true sense of the word, stoups made of very fine handmade Umbrian ceramic, which reproduce pop icons with a healthy but irresistible madness. MUST HAVE!

AMMI artistic duo born from the collaboration between the Portuguese designer Nicoalau dos Santos and the French – Italian art director Stephanie Blanchard, provocative and ironic style, contemporary in its classicism. Nice!

TRUE Made in Italy furniture for workspaces, lounges, offices and homes, founded by Alessandro and Lorenzo Maniera. Attention to details and materials, a production that stands out for being “tailored” and therefore highly sought after.

The House of Lyria, a Prato-based company, one of the hearts of the Italian textile industry, which creates unique, timeless fabrics. Creative mind Riccardo Bruni, who after collaborating with important Italian and international fashion brands, decided to try his hand at interior design, I would say that he did well.

Slide company born in 2002 on the outskirts of Milan, products for indoor and outdoor, all 100% Made in Italy (and in this type of thing it is not obvious). Ironic, playful, funny, well done. Attention to the environment and to a circular economy positively close the circle. Great!

Poldo Dog Couture brand specialized in designing refined outfits for dogs. Poldo is the mascot, a small dachshund loved by the two founders.

The Painter’s Wife, a project born in 2017 on the north-western coast of Spain, and is dedicated to the lifestyle for pets and their owners.

2.8 Duepuntootto is another brand founded in 2016 from an idea by Anna Bussolotto, a portrait photographer, looking for beautiful but functional objects for her beloved dachshunds. Each product is dedicated to a great photographer, such as Richard Avedon, Annie Leibovitz, etc. Irresistible impermeable paikkas for very stylish puppies, but also functional accessories, to make our four-legged friends safe.

MjoDOG, love for puppies and love for fashion, MjoDOG was born from this intention. The desire to become a reference brand for the production of accessories for dogs with style and charm, Milan, where it is designed, is certainly a guarantee!

   

   

Some images of Pitti Uomo visitors, sometimes the show is pyrotechnic both inside and outside.

Good life to everyone!

Beatrice

 

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