The MET celebrates Karl Lagerfeld, the emperor (KAISER) of twentieth-century fashion

Kaiserin by Beatrice Brandini

Poster of the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

Four years after his death, the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum celebrates Karl Lagerfeld with the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty (until July 16).

Overview of the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

   

Sketch of Chanel wedding dress, SS 2005 and original dress in the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

A genius who has been able to dominate the brands for which he has worked with his personality (Chanel, Fendi, Chloé…); cultured, ingenious, elusive, creative, despotic, snobbish, undoubtedly a brilliant man, perhaps, right together with Coco Chanel, the only fashion icon of the 20th century (think of how many times her image has been reproduced on design objects, posters, puppets, keychains…, just like that of Frida Kahlo or Freddy Mercury).

A dress in the Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty exhibition

   

Sketch for Fendi and original dress

A path, that of Kaiser Karl (so nicknamed in the environment), which was born in 1954 when he won the International Woolmark Prize together with Yves Saint Laurent and Fernando Sanchez. Soon after, he trained as an assistant at Balmain and then migrated to Jean Patou. Subsequently he became creative director of Chloé, Chanel, Fendi, and for the last two sensational maisons, a partnership that took place simultaneously for fifty-four years (Fendi) and forty years (Chanel), which ended only with the death of the artist.

Karl Lagerfeld desk in the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

   

Lagerfeld sketch for Chloé SS 1983 and original dress in the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

The exhibition intends to retrace the entire career of this extraordinary designer (it is limiting to define him as such), but unlike other stylists (a definition which today corresponds to that of creative directors), his style is not recognizable and personal, not as a Valentino, a Saint Laurent, an Armani, and in fact both Chanel and Fendi were such even before the arrival of Karl. Therefore his uniqueness was also that of becoming the symbol of himself, a certainly a very good creative, but who with his own personality and culture, nourished by art, music, cinema, has been able to dominate the fashion scene for a very long time.

An extraordinary sketch by Karl Lagerfeld

The installation of the exhibition, created by the archistar Tadao Ando, highlights some elements that belonged to the artist, such as one of his four desks, clearly covered with art monographs, jewels, ballet; a dressing gown, a pair of shoes and of course, which is essential for understanding Lagerfeld’s work, his very famous drawings. Each item on display is almost always shown together with the sketch from which it originated. One of the few designers from whom, already from the drawing, we understand the final dress. “When I draw I see the project in a three-dimensional version”, said Lagerfeld.

   

Some of the most particular and noteworthy looks (for me) at the MET Gala to inaugurate the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

   

Some of the most beautiful looks (for me) at the MET Gala to inaugurate the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

Perhaps by drawing he pulled the plug, perhaps the manual skill of drawing was the first process, the most authentic one, which made him endure the subsequent ones, linked for example to business. Drawing for master Karl was NECESSARY. “I learned to draw before I learned to talk or walk” Karl Lagerfeld.

   

Some of the most beautiful looks (for me) at the MET Gala to inaugurate the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

   

Some of the most beautiful looks (for me) at the MET Gala to inaugurate the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

he curator of the exhibition, Andrew Bolton, chief curator of the Met’s Costume Institute, worked enthusiastically for this exhibition, trying to respect what would have been the guidelines of the master, certainly not making a trivial or traditional setting. But in reality, despite appearances, probably Karl would never have agreed to self-celebrate with a retrospective “Fashion is not art, fashion belongs to the street, to women’s bodies ..” so he said.

   

Two more wonderful images of the installation of the exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A line of Beauty

But I am instead convinced that it is a beautiful tribute to a great fashion figure. An inspiration to the many young people who are starting to study this topic, to journalists, photographers, designers, architects, creatives of all kinds and nuances. Karl has experimented with a little bit of everything, with prolific and zealous commitment, enthusiasm, and of course a great deal of talent. It doesn’t matter if he didn’t smile or please the audience, Karl was a free and independent artist who always looked ahead.

The one and only Karl

Lucky will be all those who will be able to visit this incredible exhibition in New York.

Good life to everyone!

Beatrice

 

 

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